It was a four day weekend for me, thanks to the Family Day Stat holiday, so a fair bit of puttering about the sewing room was done. I was keen to make another black bra made since my Elan attempt a couple of weeks ago didn’t work out.
I had noticed, as I wore my first Shelley Bra more, that the fit was not as perfect as I initially thought during my “first bra euphoria.” Throughout the day I would start to get a small bulge along the neckline. I re-checked my measurements and was now getting high bust 35, full bust 39 and under bust 33, so decided I should try a size up in the cup and make a 34D. I may have measured wrong last time when I got 35/38/33 or they may have just changed that much since the end of December. I remember once shelling out big bucks at a specialty bra place, where they have somebody fit you properly, then having it not fit 3 weeks later merely because my weight had changed by a measly 5 pounds.
I decided to sew up another Shelley bra in the larger size with the remainder of the lovely Black and red lace I used with the trial Elan. I made the back band taller this time and attached the straps differently but did not change anything on the cup since I wanted to see the D cup fit with no adjustments.
I left the center front the regular height and this time I backed the edge of the neckline lace with some stay tape, like the pattern instructions advise. I remembered when looking over the instructions that I’d skipped this step last time thinking stay tape would cause an odd bump at the edge of the neckline. This time I decided to try it. Since I used stretch lace at the neckline last time this may be another reason I didn’t notice my fit issue right away.
The stay tape on version 2 does cut into my chest a bit if my shoulders are right back (I’m a hunch backed office worker so how often will that happen?) but not nearly as badly as I expected. It also has a benefit I hadn’t thought of, pulling the cup upwards so there is slightly more lift. So I’ve learn the purpose of the stay tape. Now I wonder how I can lower the neckline, preserve the lift, but not end up with a line where the neckline cuts in? Maybe I can’t?
I’ve worn the bra for a full day and found it quite comfortable and am no longer getting a muffin top along the neckline throughout the day so I think the D cup is a better fit. I’ll be hanging onto my C cup though, since who knows it could fit again in 3 weeks. Lol.
Garment Cost $22.62 CAD (costs include shipping, exchange & duties)
- 1/2″ Band elastic $3.95 – Bra-Makers Supply
- 3/8 Strap Elastic $1.13 – Sew Sassy Fabrics
- 3/8″ Band elastic $0.29 – Flora’s Garden (Kim Thayer) on Etsy
- Hook & Eye closure $1.80 – Sew Sassy Fabrics
- Channeling- $1.34 – Sew Sassy Fabrics
- Strap hooks/sliders/rings $0.96 – Sew Sassy Fabrics
- Underwires $2.50 – Bra-Makers Supply
- Powernet $2.15 – Sew Sassy Fabrics
- Black & Red stretch lace $3.10 – Bra-Makers Supply
- Duoplex fabric $4.90 – Bra-Makers Supply
- Thread approx $0.50
*** Prices for Sew Sassy items are from a order I made in 2014, when CAD to USD exchange was much better than current rates.
Pattern cost $ 20.00 CAD – now used 2 times
And in other weekend mucking about:
I had been contemplating the adjustments I needed on the Elan pattern and wondering if it would be better to mod the Shelley instead since it already had a split lower cup. I’m playing around with drafting some changes on the Shelley D cup to remove the power bar, leaving just a upper cup and split lower cup. I did a bit of Franken-bra-I got but Am not sure I’m getting anywhere yet. It’s a learning process though and I still feel confident I can achieve what I want with some trial and error.
I’ll be continuing with my drafting experiments…as soon as I get more stretch needles! I watched Beverly’s brand new Craftsy course Sewing Bras: Foam, Lace and Beyond and am really anxious to get to the point where I can draft some of the bras shown in the course. Balconette or demi cups lined with foam!! That is exactly what I’m hoping to be able to make and she talks about both in this new course. 😀
Hint, if you are interested in these Craftsy classes, I noticed they are cheaper if you access them through the side-bar add on the instructor’s store Bra-Makers Supply. Quite a reasonable price for all the things I’ve learned!