Elan or a knock-off?

It’s almost the end of February and I wanted to meet my undergarment goal for the month and have a lace bra to submit for Emerald Erin’s Lace Month.  So re-tackling the Elan bra pattern, I drafted the adjustments I thought were needed based on my fist try of the pattern.

And then I went off the rails.  Looking at the new pieces I still felt uncertain my adjustments would really resolve the pointy issue.  So, what did I do?  I cheated😳

Out came a older LaSenza bra which I thought the cups fit fairly decently in. It’s thin preformed foam with no push-up bumps. Apparently a 32 DD?? Weird, some of my single D bras seem slightly large… Anyhow, moving on, I cut out my pieces on tissue with no seam allowance and grab some tape.

So far so good! Apparently I was doing alright with my draft to remove the point to east/west and flat spot at bottom.

Interesting, I would have thought of adding a wedge to the center front upper cup if it was too tight. Definitely would not have thought to add a chunk to the lower cup though…

Alright, easy enough, insert chunks of paper and trace additions then carefully remove and slice though my tape.

Wait a second. In the craftsy class I took, where adjustments are demonstrated, she says “never touch the wire line.” Gah!! I just touched the wire line! Muttering curses at myself I start measuring. 7/8 of an inch extra along lower cup.

Original length of upper cup along wire line was 2 1/2 inches and is now 1 5/8 inches…so less by 7/8 of an inch! So I’ve got the same distance in the end! I pause for a little happy dance then mark down by another 5/8″ of an in the center since both the Elan and the LaSenza were to high in the center.

I plan to use a 38 regular wire from Bra-makers Supply so I compare this to the wire from the LaSenza bra. Then compare the wire I used in my first Elan.  My planned wire looks 1 1/4 inches shorter than the LaSenza wire (picture on left) so I compare the La Senza to the wire used in my first Elan (on the right).  The  LaSenza wire is taller by 5/8 of an inch.  This tells me that my drop of 5/8 inch at the center front is fine and I won’t have excess room in the channeling for the wire I plan to use.

I lower the center front on my bridge to match the 5/8 inch I lowered my cup by.  Since I want the front of my band in lace, I also used a nifty pivot trick I learned in the Foam, Lace and Beyond course to get a lace line with enough space for my elastic and seam allowance.

Now that I’ve bombarded you with all the boring pictures of tissue paper scribbles, finally the good stuff:

Hot pink stretch lace covers the cup, the band and a small triangle where the straps attach.   Originally I used just some white ribbon for the straps but that seemed too flimsy and was quickly replaced with this 1/2″ elastic and lace triangle which I like much better.

The cup is really close in fit to what I was looking for with a lovely round shape.  If I take a 1/4″ dart out of the outer side cup it lays nicer and seems like it will be perfect.  I’m so excited – my own hand made pink lace bra with foam cups!

I may have cheated at the drafting of changes but it saved me what would have been several trials to get where I am now, with a “La Elan” bra that I’m so pleased with.

  

A final picture comparing the foam in my adjusted round shape to the original shape of the Elan.

  

Garment Cost $27.83 CAD (costs include shipping, exchange & duties)

• 1/2″ Band elastic $4.37 – Bra-Makers Supply
• 3/8 Strap Elastic $1.22 – Bra-Makers Supply
• 3/8″ Band elastic $01.16 – ArteCrafts
• Hook & Eye closure $2.63 – ArteCrafts
• Channeling- $1.46 – Sew Sassy Fabrics
• Strap sliders/rings $1.70 – Bra-Makers Supply
• Underwires $3.40 – Bra-Makers Supply
• Pre-finished foam $4.00 – Bra-Makers Supply
• Powernet $2.15 – Sew Sassy Fabrics
• Pink stretch lace $4.04 – Sew Sassy Fabrics
• Sheer lining $0.90 – Bra-Makers Supply
• Ribbon approx $0.30 – Michaels
• Thread approx $0.50

*** Prices for Sew Sassy items are from a order I made in 2014, when CAD to USD exchange was much better than current rates.

Pattern cost $ 16.98 CAD – now used 2 times

Next time

• Take 1/4″ dart out at outer side cup
• Move strap attachment point towards slightly inwards
• Lengthen band by 1″ if using firm elastic and power net
• Modify seam lines using my perfected foam cup and techniques from “Foam, Lace and Beyond” Craftsy course.