Completed Projects · Drafting fit changes · Lingerie

Elan or a knock-off?

It’s almost the end of February and I wanted to meet my undergarment goal for the month and have a lace bra to submit for Emerald Erin’s Lace Month.  So re-tackling the Elan bra pattern, I drafted the adjustments I thought were needed based on my fist try of the pattern.

And then I went off the rails.  Looking at the new pieces I still felt uncertain my adjustments would really resolve the pointy issue.  So, what did I do?  I cheated😳


Out came a older LaSenza bra which I thought the cups fit fairly decently in. It’s thin preformed foam with no push-up bumps. Apparently a 32 DD?? Weird, some of my single D bras seem slightly large… Anyhow, moving on, I cut out my pieces on tissue with no seam allowance and grab some tape.


So far so good! Apparently I was doing alright with my draft to remove the point to east/west and flat spot at bottom.


Interesting, I would have thought of adding a wedge to the center front upper cup if it was too tight. Definitely would not have thought to add a chunk to the lower cup though…


Alright, easy enough, insert chunks of paper and trace additions then carefully remove and slice though my tape.

image

Wait a second. In the craftsy class I took, where adjustments are demonstrated, she says “never touch the wire line.” Gah!! I just touched the wire line! Muttering curses at myself I start measuring. 7/8 of an inch extra along lower cup.

Original length of upper cup along wire line was 2 1/2 inches and is now 1 5/8 inches…so less by 7/8 of an inch! So I’ve got the same distance in the end! I pause for a little happy dance then mark down by another 5/8″ of an in the center since both the Elan and the LaSenza were to high in the center.


I plan to use a 38 regular wire from Bra-makers Supply so I compare this to the wire from the LaSenza bra. Then compare the wire I used in my first Elan.  My planned wire looks 1 1/4 inches shorter than the LaSenza wire (picture on left) so I compare the La Senza to the wire used in my first Elan (on the right).  The  LaSenza wire is taller by 5/8 of an inch.  This tells me that my drop of 5/8 inch at the center front is fine and I won’t have excess room in the channeling for the wire I plan to use.

I lower the center front on my bridge to match the 5/8 inch I lowered my cup by.  Since I want the front of my band in lace, I also used a nifty pivot trick I learned in the Foam, Lace and Beyond course to get a lace line with enough space for my elastic and seam allowance.

Now that I’ve bombarded you with all the boring pictures of tissue paper scribbles, finally the good stuff:


Hot pink stretch lace covers the cup, the band and a small triangle where the straps attach.   Originally I used just some white ribbon for the straps but that seemed too flimsy and was quickly replaced with this 1/2″ elastic and lace triangle which I like much better.


The cup is really close in fit to what I was looking for with a lovely round shape.  If I take a 1/4″ dart out of the outer side cup it lays nicer and seems like it will be perfect.  I’m so excited – my own hand made pink lace bra with foam cups!

2016-02-22 20.12.24

I may have cheated at the drafting of changes but it saved me what would have been several trials to get where I am now, with a “La Elan” bra that I’m so pleased with.

  

A final picture comparing the foam in my adjusted round shape to the original shape of the Elan.

  

Garment Cost $27.83 CAD (costs include shipping, exchange & duties)
  • 1/2″ Band elastic $4.37 – Bra-Makers Supply
  • 3/8 Strap Elastic $1.22 – Bra-Makers Supply
  • 3/8″ Band elastic $01.16 – ArteCrafts
  • Hook & Eye closure $2.63 – ArteCrafts
  • Channeling- $1.46 – Sew Sassy Fabrics
  • Strap sliders/rings $1.70 – Bra-Makers Supply
  • Underwires $3.40 – Bra-Makers Supply
  • Pre-finished foam $4.00 – Bra-Makers Supply
  • Powernet $2.15 – Sew Sassy Fabrics
  • Pink stretch lace $4.04 – Sew Sassy Fabrics
  • Sheer lining $0.90 – Bra-Makers Supply
  • Ribbon approx $0.30 – Michaels
  • Thread approx $0.50

*** Prices for Sew Sassy items are from a order I made in 2014, when CAD to USD exchange was much better than current rates.

Pattern cost $ 16.98 CAD – now used 2 times
Next time
  • Take 1/4″ dart out at outer side cup
  • Move strap attachment point towards slightly inwards
  • Lengthen band by 1″ if using firm elastic and power net
  • Modify seam lines using my perfected foam cup and techniques from “Foam, Lace and Beyond” Craftsy course.
Advertisements

4 thoughts on “Elan or a knock-off?

  1. I really admire your determination to tweak the pattern to get a good fit. I will have to re read your posting to really see how you analyzed all the measurements. Well done! I’m going to learn a lot with your blog!

    Like

    1. Wow, thank you😀 Such a compliment, that you could lean things from my blog!! I feel I have barely scraped the tip of the iceberg of things to learn about sewing. So many different techniques one can use and fit issues to learn about!

      Like

Comments are closed.