I’ve got my muslin together for my Yuzu Coat. It’s actually made out of some fleece I had kicking around, since I thought that would closer represent the weight of wool with Thinsulate interlining planned for my final cut.
Now that I have the trial version sewn I’m feeling some doubts about the fit. I don’t really know how to adjust or if it is actually fitting as it should. This is the size 42 of Yuzu based on my measurements of 38″ bust 32″ waist and 42″ hips.
It’s the raglan sleeves that are causing my angst. The only place I’ve ever used or worn this type of sleeve is in stretchy knit garments. This coat has a 2 piece raglan with a beautiful curved seam shaped over the shoulder.
The less beautiful part is what seems to be going on under my arms. The underarm seam is so low that it seems to restrict my mobility. When I lift my arms it causes quite a lot of bunching around my shoulders, neck and back.
If I lift my arm above my head the sleeve hem, which was pinned at a generous length half covering my hand when lowered, is halfway up my arm! The 5-6 inches is lost when the underarm seam moves up my side to the actual spot where my arm meets my body.
The problem is I have no idea how these sleeves should properly fit. Are they supposed to be this low under my arms? It’s a coat so it obviously needs more room so it fits over a sweater but how low is just right?
I tried the internet search for “adjustments to raglan sleeves” and “proper depth of sleeve on raglan coat” but the only information I’m finding is how to adjust the curve over the arm.
Looking at the picture on the Waffle site or on IndieSew perhaps this is just how this style should fit. If that’s the case perhaps I should just skip interlining, making it a spring coat, so there is less thickness to bunch up when moving my arms.
So now I’m not sure how I should proceed with this pattern. What is the right adjustment to make if any? If this is how the coat should fit does the shape suit me? Any advice or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.