A not so boring beige demi-cup Boylston Bra

It’s been a while since I posted about progress on my undergarment goals.  I must admit I’ve gotten a bit behind on these goals, distracted by other fun projects like pattern testing and jeans making.  The next challenge I’d set for myself was to make a demi-cup or plunge bra .   At long  last here’s a post on my newest bra(s)!

I did contemplate modifying one of the patterns I already owned to get this style of bra but in the end decided to just purchase the Boylston pattern.  This pattern seems to be a favorite of many and after looking at it for probably the millionth time I caved and just bought it.  I justified this with the thought that I could have spent as much in wasted materials trying to draft my own  demi-cup pattern.  I’ve previously played around making a franken-bra trying to make changes to the Shelley Bra pattern but got nowhere fast.  Materials used impact fit and you can’t really tell the fit until it’s all assembled so it’s difficult to cheaply “muslin” changes.

With warm summer weather leading to wearing lighter tops I was finding I really needed some “boring beige bras” since my RTW ones are getting quite worn out.  My one ivory me-made bra is a bit small in the cup so not ideal either.  As a result my first try at the Boylston bra is the most basic bra I’ve made to date.  The cups are made entirely of ivory duplex with nary a scrap of lace or patterned material.

This trial run is a 34D and the size and turned out to be a bit too snug in the band even using the loosest hook.  I also found that the straps are too short.  I foolishly cut the strapping at 10 inches (for each side) per the instructions rather than checking first.  The cups seemed a bit small but I think that would be improved if I could loosen the straps more.  I’ve ordered some g-hooks and plan to modify the straps to allow crossing at the back when I’m fixing the strap length.

After seeing the fit of my boring ivory trial run I decided the pattern was worthy of being used with some of the amazing beige/gold Ewa lace from the Emerald Studio.  This lace non-stretch lace is absolutely stunning and I love how delicate this bra looks made in all lace and sheer cup lining.  Despite looking very delicate this bra has gone through the washing machine and came out came out perfectly fine too.  Yes, I should hand wash…but I don’t.  Who has time for that?  I at least refrain from tossing my me made bras in the dryer so I’m improving!

For my second try at the Boylston I decided to go up in band size and make the 36D.  What I did not realize is that the cup size actually changes too when going between a 34D and a 36D size.  You can see above the difference with the 34D pieces laid over top of the 36D pieces.  Luckily for me the fit of the cup is still ok although the apex seems slightly high and cup height is a bit more than a demi-cup would normally be.  It still feels supportive and it is quite comfortable though.  If the cups on my ivory one still seem small after I lengthen the straps then I may actually be right between these 2 sizes of cups.  The smallest differences are so noticeable in bras.  The 36D band is also a bit big since it’s just right on the tightest hooks, guess I’m between sizes on that too so I’ll shorten the 36 back band a bit next time.

In my ivory trial run I had felt that the straps sat oddly and wanted to slide off my shoulders so I adjusted the strap scoop on the back band as shown here.  This way the straps are not so far out to the sides on the back of my lace version.  Much better!

I’m not certain my band adjustment will completely solve my issue with the original straps,  I have a feeling the angle at which they attach is not quite perfect for me.  I modified my second Boylston to have straps made entirely of elastic strapping attaching with a ring at the top of the cup.  I do really like the look of the fabric strap extension on the pattern though and will be trying that look again later.  I’ll see then if I also need to adjust for the angle of the straps to properly fit my shoulders.

I want to talk about the construction of this pattern.  The pattern instructions have you use lining to stabilize and line the cup for a nice neat finish.  It is my first time using this technique and I love it!  These look as beautiful on the inside as the outside.  I’ve always preferred foam lined bras for coverage (no worries about cold rooms 😜) and a nicer shape but this pattern is really converting me.  The Boylston has a really nice rounded shape and  two layers of material seems to provide pretty good coverage.  Also, so comfortable!  I can certainly see why this pattern is favoured by many.

Speaking of the inside, if you look really closely you may notice I attached my channeling upside down on the right cup of my lace version.  Doh!  Fortunately this doesn’t feel noticeably different when I’m wearing the bra.  I actually forgot about it until looking at the pictures so I’m not bothering to un-pick and fix it.  I am however documenting this mistake so that hopefully I don’t make it again, haha!

I’m holding off on my final rating of this pattern until I’ve made a foam cup Boylston as well.  The description when purchasing the pattern indicates that this pattern can be used for both foam and soft cups!  My one disappointment with this pattern so far is actually in relation to this.  Despite the pattern description mentioning it works with cut and sew foam cups, the instructions only include details for making it without foam.  I also wasn’t able to find a post or sew-along on the designer’s blog talking about how to use the pattern for foam cups.  This isn’t really a big deal for me since I have this Craftsy class, showing how to add foam cups for a pattern, however given that it was mentioned in the pattern description I was surprised to find no details in the instructions.

Garment Cost for Ivory Duoplex version $21.17 CAD (costs include taxes, shipping, exchange & duties)

• 1/3 of a .6 meter piece of Duoplex $4.07 – Bra-makers Supply
• 1/6 of a 1 meter piece of sheer cup lining $2.44 – Bra-makers Supply
• 1/3 of .6 meter piece of stretch mesh $2.26 – Bra-makers Supply
• 20 inches of 1/2″ strapping $1.13 – Bra-makers Supply
• 25 inches 1/2″ band elastic $1.61 – Bra-makers Supply
• 40 inches 3/8″ band elastic $2.03 – Bra-makers Supply
• 25 inches plush underwire casing $1.97 – Blackbird Fabrics
• Ivory metal rings/sliders $1.70 – Bra-makers Supply
• 3×3 hook and eye $2.41 – ArteCrafts here or on Etsy
• Underwires $1.05 – Fabricland

Garment Cost for Gold Lace version $24.18 CAD (costs include taxes, shipping, exchange & duties)

• 1/2 of a .5 meter piece of Gold Ewa Lace $6.45 – The Emerald Studio
• 1/6 of a 1 meter piece of sheer cup lining $2.44 – Bra-makers Supply
• 1/3 of .6 meter piece of stretch mesh $2.26 – Bra-makers Supply
• 42 inches of 1/2″ strapping $2.37 – Bra-makers Supply
• 25 inches 1/2″ band elastic $1.61 – Bra-makers Supply
• 20 inches 3/8″ band elastic $1.02 – Bra-makers Supply
• 25 inches plush underwire casing $1.97 – Blackbird Fabrics
• Gold jewelry rings/sliders $3.15 – Blackbird Fabrics
• 3×3 hook and eye $2.41 – ArteCrafts here or on Etsy
• Thread $0.50
• Underwires $0.00 – Recycled from old bra

Pattern cost $22.41 CAD

• The base cost of the pattern is $16.99 USD at Orange Lingerie’s site or Etsy shop

Size chosen and modifications made:

• For the plain ivory duplex version size 34D was chosen based on my measurements and no modifications were made.
• For the gold lace version I used size 36D, modified the strap scoop to bring strap back attachment point closer to center and attached strapping with a ring to the cup rather than using the fabric strap piece.