I’ve found another pattern that is going to be worth every penny I spent on it! A pattern I picked up during the Indiesew sale right at the end of March.
If you haven’t heard of Indiesew before, they are a fantastic site in the U.S. with patterns from many indie designers. They put together a pattern bundle each season. These bundles come in PDF or a limited availability printed option which is great if you really prefer printed patterns. Indiesew also has a lovely selection of garment fabric but unfortunately the shipping to Canada is a bit steep. If you like PDF patterns though it’s a great site to watch for a sale, allowing one the opportunity to save money on patterns from many different designers.
Back to the pattern though, the Lane Raglan is definitely worth it even if I’d purchased it at full price. It has a lot of options with multiple sleeve lengths, optional hood, curved or banded hem, optional chest pocket, hemmed or banded sleeves and for long sleeves an optional thumb hole wristband. Also, my favorite thing, this pattern comes with an alternate front bodice piece for those with more than 3″ difference between their high and full bust measurements! The pattern actually has you pick your size based on high bust rather than full bust measurements!
For my first try at this pattern I used a thin, very stretchy, black bamboo jersey knit from my local Fabricland. I chose the size medium (tapering to large at the hips) based on my measurements. It ended up being quite slouchey since my fabric had so much stretch. I traced the size small pattern (still tapered to large) after seeing the fit, for use in the future with such stretchy fabric.
I’m getting a lot of use out of my black version but it really was a practice piece. The sleeves are supposed to be elbow length and I originally cut this to be the curved hem version. I was trying to use the cover stitch setting on my serger, which I am still learning to use, and it didn’t go so well.
The extra thin stretchy fabric just wanted to tunnel, go wavey or suck to the left as it went under my serger foot. Argh, clearly need more practice or a different serger foot specific to cover stitch for the really thin stretchy stuff! Long story short, the sleeves got shorter and the hem ended up banded.
Despite my struggles I love this black version and it’s been getting tons of wear. The neckline is very flattering and it’s such a versatile piece. Nice enough for work, casual enough for putzing around or almost any activity. As you can see I was very pleased with both my top and my aim when I wore it to the range! Haha. Being supportive of my significant other’s hobbies. For some reason he was much more excited to take a picture of my target than of my sewing projects?!?
For my second version I used some my precious material, maroon and black striped bamboo/cotton jersey, from Blackbird Fabrics. Their fabric is so very nice and such good quality. This jersey is so soft I’ve actually made a couple of people feel my shirt! One such person was my significant other and he instantly requested I make him an extra soft t-shirt. There is grey bamboo/cotton jersey ordered now for some upcoming un-selfish sewing. The black material used for the sleeves is a cotton/spandex from my local fabric store. Not nearly as soft but I knew mismatched sleeve stripes would bug me and Blackbird Fabrics had no plain black in stock the day I looked. They of course re-stocked it almost immediately after I sewed this up!
Unlike my black version this fabric sewed like a dream and the cover stitch worked very nicely, so I have the lovely curved hem! I suspect with practice I’ll be able to cover stitch at just the right spot when hemming but my struggles on the previous version made me play it safe. I sewed slightly lower than my turned up hem so as to always have the entire stitch over 2 layers fabric. Then I used the beautiful appliqué scissors I received for Christmas to trim the excess.
Special thanks to my friend Lena for taking some pictures of this version for me. So much better than trying to take pictures myself or wrangling the BF to take some for me. I made this weeks ago and photos were the hold up on posting this.
The overall fit on this version is a bit snug and perhaps a tad long (I did not adjust the pattern for my ultra short torso) so it bunches up a bit at the middle though not excessively. I accidentally used the size small pieces I’d traced rather than the size medium I’d intended to use for this slightly less stretchy material. Luckily it’s not too small as to be unwearable just slightly more fitted than I’d intended. The elbow length sleeves are the perfect length this time since I had no serger issues.
I had to get a picture of my stripe matching. Not perfect but pretty darn close and worth documenting to show my improving skills. It’s only off at the top under my arm….pretty sure nobody is noticing that unless I point it out! 😜
Garment Cost – Black Jersey version $13.60 CAD
- 1.5m black rayon spandex jersey $12.60 – Fabricland
- thread $1.00
Garment Cost – Maroon & Black Striped Jersey version $23.25 CAD
- .75m bamboo cotton jersey $14.33 – Blackbird Fabrics
- .5m cotton spandex jersey $7.92 – Fabricland
- thread $1.00
Pattern cost $10.67 CAD (PDF purchased on sale)
- The base price of this pattern at the time of this post is $10 USD from the designer Hey June Handmade or from Indiesew.
Size chosen and modifications made:
- Size small or medium chosen based on my measurements and type of fabric.
- In the black version my sleeves are shorter due to my difficulties with cover stitching my chosen fabric.
What I liked
- Additional front bodice piece for those with C cup or greater (Yay for not needing to do a full bust adjustment!)
- So many options for variations with sleeves, hood, pocket and hem styles.
- Lovely fit, I particularly like that the arm scythe (is it still called that for a raglan sleeve?) is not too low under the arm.
- Very flattering neckline.
- Classic pattern that I will use for life.
What I disliked
- no lengthen/shorten lines, height designed for not specified and finished garment length not specified
My rating for this pattern is 9.5/10
All the pieces fit together perfectly and instructions were extremely detailed for the versions I made as well as what I read for the versions I have not yet tried. The only thing I could possibly say negatively about this pattern was the missing details for lengthening/shortening the pattern based on my height. There was certainly other details in the pattern to help with fitting – an included front with FBA was particularly impressive as well as discussing fit with fabric choice and details on grading between sizes. I also really liked that directions for choosing size was based on high bust measurement which would give better fit at back and shoulders for those a larger bust.
The fabric requirements do not give a breakdown for long vs short sleeves. I did managed to squeak my curved hem version out of only 1.5 yards of fabric but the 2 yards stated seems accurate to account for longer sleeves and shrinkage. I did not see a specific difficulty rating on this pattern but the description indicated it was “perfect for your first foray into knit garments” which I felt was accurate since it was quite detailed and provided information specifically about sewing with knits.
- Make a snuggley french terry version with a hood, long sleeves and thumb hole cuffs.
- Try a mashup of this with the new Hey June Santa Fe Top for a slimmer fit tank or when using a fabric with less drape than is workable for the Santa Fe tank.